Simone Rocha designed her Autumn/Winter 2020 collection around the cycle of life in the Aran Islands — a trio of isles located off the west coast of Ireland. She described the show as a narrative of “procession, baptism; birth, life and loss,” presenting her famously fantastical dresses under a ceremonial light, and rendering them into everything from ivory birthing frocks to black gowns for women in mourning.

Last season, Rocha looked to the Celtic tradition of Wren Day for inspiration, and this season, she framed her folklore fantasy with Aran knit sweaters and elements of sea life, introducing shark teeth earrings and fisherman net bags. Rocha’s signature tulle, silk, and Chantilly lace returned with religious motifs. “You can’t look at Ireland and not be influenced a little bit by Catholicism,” she said, referring to the bishop sleeves, papal red satin sashes and orange Church lettering on deep purple. There was an element of dark romance with deep blue satin gowns and embroidered floral prints before the show transitioned back to virginal white, closing with two intricate bridal veils.