For Autumn/Winter 2019, the Saint Laurent power suit was reserved for the women, with dramatic wide shoulders remaining elegant by virtue of Anthony Vaccarello’s keen tailoring. “She’s not making war; she’s not a combatant,” explained Vaccarello. “But she is really strong; she’s fearless.”

This season, Saint Laurent harked back to the heyday of Yves Saint Laurent, when Opium-era decadence and ‘70s “Scandal” haute couture established the house codes. Despite its iconic references, this season’s collection was undeniably Vaccarello in execution. You could see his hand in the clean, straight lines that defined the broad-shouldered suit jackets, which created a silhouette different from the prevalent oversized fits of the moment. Other signature motifs included the extra-short hemlines, sheer polka-dot tights, and sparkly big bows. But it was a black tuxedo column gown that best reflected Vaccarello’s interpretation of the iconic Le Smoking look.

After 69 women’s and men’s looks, the lights went out for part two: a sequence of neon, glow-in-the-dark outfits sent down a mirrored runway, which steered the collection into a futuristic direction.