There’s a not-so-subtle shift taking place this Autumn/Winter 2019 season that sees many of fashion’s streetwear giants tone down the logomania for a return to tailoring. At the forefront is Off-White, whose famous quotation marks and athleisure slant were visibly absent from its  collection. “The streetcar I rolled in was streetwear,” Virgil Abloh said. “But now it’s commonplace. I’m intrigued by the empowered woman who wants to dress in a feminine but chic way.”

For a brand founded on its utility belts and audacious stripe logo, Off-White’s movement into suiting is more of an entrance than a return. The show opened with a strong sequence of tailoring: a sleek ankle-grazing silver satin coat, a quilted shearling number, and then a brilliantly-cut black leather suit. Off-White’s usually-potent branding was delivered in small doses, keeping the emphasis on the silhouettes, and the fabrics native to the brand — jersey and fleece — were draped, wrapped and cut into more feminine, couture-like shapes.

The overall feel was still very much street though. The set was inspired by a Nascar race track — a nod to the previous season’s track-and-field theme — where the runway was a bold yellow and grey checkered floor, mirrored in the collection’s puffer jackets, bags, a gown, and dramatic cape worn by Bella Hadid. A supermodel finale featured Adut Akech, Karlie Kloss, and the Hadid sisters on the catwalk.