In the South of France, far from the hustle of any metropolitan cityscape, Jacquemus rolled out a vibrant pink runway that ran parallel to rows of lavender bushes stretching as far as the eye could see. “I wanted it to look like a David Hockney painting or a Christo installation through the fields,” Simon Porte Jacquemus said. “With lots of prints. A painting within a painting, in a field. Provençal Pop!”
Jacquemus’ Spring/Summer 2020 show and 10th-anniversary event, titled “Le Coup De Soleil” (sunburn in French) made a splashing finale for the European menswear cycle, treating its audience of editors, influencers and the vast world of social media to a spectacle of sun-drenched visuals. This was the first time Jacquemus featured both menswear and womenswear on the same runway, yet the brand codes were all present in full capacity. There were loosely tailored suit jackets and billowing trousers, voluminous skirts and louche knit dresses, scores of shirts and outerwear made for layering, and a total of 35 eye-catching prints pulled together by a high saturation colour palette. “I wanted something sophisticated but at the same time as light as a cocktail in the summer,” he said.
Signature Jacquemus silhouettes were rendered a touch more wearable this season and pieces like the cut-out crochet dress and the leather bustier introduced some novelty. But the overall feel of the collection was straightforward and familiar — youthful, fun, and thoroughly optimistic — as were the signature accessories, the bulk of which were new iterations of the Bomba straw hat and bags ranging from micro-mini to extra-large. “I want to bring the sunshine—that’s it,” said Jacquemus.