Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2021 show was a presentation of restrained grandeur and a twisted sense of nostalgia, held in the Hall Of Mirrors in the Palace Of Versailles. The set was designed by artist Silvia Giambrone and saw 14 mirror installations coated in wax and thorns as a social feminist commentary, one that aligns with Maria Grazia Chiuri’s tradition of framing shows with acts of bold feminism. The mirrors spoke to the love-hate relationship that women have with reflections, a dynamic, Chiuri commented, that grew increasingly volatile throughout quarantine and months of lockdown.
The mirror is an object that attracts us, but at the same time we have a repulsion because when we see our image, in some way it’s very hard to see ourselves — we see what people see about ourselves
Maria Grazia Chiuri
The collection itself was heavily inspired by fairytales, with Maria Grazia Chiuri revisiting nostalgic stories not only for inspiration, but to challenge stereotypes and archetypes. Neat tailoring and practical sensibilities were dramatically heightened with the likes of riding hoods and billowing capes, while blue cashmere coats and military aesthetics alluded to toy soldier uniforms. Yet, the nostalgic innocence of such references were dampened by dark, moody palettes and notes of grunge, as shown in thick kohl liner and the prevalence of metal hardware and leather.
The show closed with a trio of delicate, tulle gowns befit for a princess, while Chiuri’s ominous fairytale fittingly ended with a princess fleeing from sight in a frothy red gown, disappearing into the foggy wilderness.
Editor
Carina FischerCredit
Lead image: courtesy of Gorunway
