Maria Grazia Chiuri has a tradition of framing her Dior shows with an assertive feminist statement. For Autumn/Winter 2020, her message was louder than ever: “Consent. Consent. Consent.;” “When women strike the world stops”; and the designated motto-of-the-season, “I Say I” were all writ large in neon lighting across the show space.

This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri was “inspired by emblematic figures of Italian feminist art from the 1960s and 1970s” to continue her “questioning of the multiple and immutable links between the body, feminism, and femininity,” wrote the show notes. In Chiuri’s design language, this translated on the runway as a mix of classic Dior tropes — the iconic Bar jacket, slim tailored suits, sheer tulle and layers of fringe — with gingham print, a flash of denim, and other signifiers of rebellion such as a printed headscarf and combat boots worn with fishnets. Classically feminine silhouettes were “toughened-up” with neckties made of tulle and stiff button-downs, while logo-emblazoned jackets and collegiate knits tilted the scales with a dose of boyish attitude.