Virginie Viard presented her debut Chanel Métiers d’Art collection on Wednesday, closing a full cycle of seasonal “firsts” following the death of her legendary predecessor and mentor Karl Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld initiated Chanel’s annual Métiers d’Art show in 2002 as a way to showcase the artisanship of Chanel’s acquired ateliers, each of which were experts in a particular field of fashion, including gloves, millinery, feathers, goldsmiths and cashmere. It has since been tradition for the event to fall outside the official fashion week calendar and, under Lagerfeld’s whimsical vision, to show in various international destinations — the last being at the Ancient Egyptian Temple of Dendur in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.

For her debut, Viard brought the Métiers d’Art show back to Paris, entitling her collection “31 rue Cambon” in reference to the historic Chanel house where Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel would watch her fashion shows. The set — co-designed by director Sofia Coppola — took to the flagship Grand Palais where guests witnessed a reimagining of Coco Chanel’s private apartment, complete with the famous mirrored staircase, coromandel screens, and rock crystal chandelier.

These interior design details were among the many Chanel house codes that Viard weaved into her collection, which opened with a dissertation on the black coat — a series of boxy silhouettes cinched at the waist with embroidered belts reflecting the motifs found on Coco’s coromandel screens. An interlude of stark white paneling was beset with more signature Chanel details — strands of pearls, metal-and-leather chain links, and emblematic tweed — before taking off to a series of rainbow-hued acid prints, transitioning to a burst of coral and peachy pink ensembles that gave heritage craftsmanship a more youthful appeal. The collection soon returned to its black-white modus operandi, by way of glittering metallics that crescendo-ed in ornate embellishment. But the overall arc of Viard’s collection was one of pragmatism, of pared-back luxury, thoughtfully designed but effortlessly worn — an attitude duly in line with that of Coco Chanel.