With over 100 looks, a star-studded model cast, and a live piano performance by Arca and classical duo Katia and Marielle Labèque on a raised mirrored stage in London Olympia, Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry Autumn/Winter 2020 show made for an epic ending to London Fashion Week.

Yet for all of its grandiosity, the collection was humbly titled “Memories,” for which Riccardo Tisci paired an intimate exercise in nostalgia with the monumental task of reinventing house codes. As such, Burberry’s iconic trench coat and plaid were transformed into various genres chronicling London’s eclectic past and present. There was ‘80s disco glamour with wide-shoulder, crystal fringe-tiered dresses; ‘90s grunge with cutout pieces pierced with metal rings and plaid shirts tied around the waist; and early-2000s collegiate prep with polos in highly saturated palettes. With both womenswear and menswear, Tisci appealed to various categories of “the culture of Britishness,” including the younger generation — the city’s rugged punk underground, brazen streetwear kids, rugby lads and club crawlers — as well as the more orthodox sort with old-style English tailoring, equestrian silhouettes, and classic ladylike glamour.