Going off her previous air-mile averages, by now, Yoon Ahn would have been preparing to make her fourth international trip of 2021. Although the designer has been grounded at home in Tokyo, the pandemic hasn’t impeded her plans to move her jewellery turned ready-to-wear brand Ambush — established in 2008 with her hip-hop artist husband Verbal — into its next chapter.
Alongside her role as director of jewellery at Dior Men, in late January, Ahn unveiled an AW21 co-ed collection of boxy 1980s tailoring, oversized outerwear in leather and shearling, and dresses that shimmered with sequins and chain-link straps. Largely monochromatic with flourishes of acid pink, yellow and green, the collection upholds Ahn’s belief that clothes should empower rather than overwhelm the wearer.
Now, she is further cementing the Ambush aesthetic and ideas with the drop of the SS21 campaign and accompanying film — the brand’s first — starring models Anok Yai and Malik Anderson; shot by Ethan James Green and styled by her longtime collaborator and friend Carlos Nazario.
Vogue caught up with Ahn over Zoom to talk about how she built a brand that’s developed cult status and where she plans to take it next.
Ambush spring/summer 2021 campaign
Photo: Ethan James Green
Why was now the right time to launch your first campaign?
“It’s more important than ever before to speak to customers through your stories and that includes beautiful pictures and videos. SS21 felt like the right time to kick off.”
What do you want to give people through your designs?
“I’m realistic in my approach to designing apparel, I’m not about fantasy. I like to create pieces that last a long time and get better with age. That’s why I focused on natural materials such as cotton and linen, which take on your shape the more you wear them.
“The word that keeps coming back to me is ‘comfort’ — what it means and how we can provide that. If someone gets up in the morning and their closet is filled with clothes that make them feel better about themselves, then I’ve done my job as a designer.”
How does your approach to jewellery design differ from that of garments?
“Clothes are a canvas and I like them to be comfortable. Jewellery is more about a mood and a way of expressing myself — one piece can transform a look and that’s what I want to capture with Ambush.”
When you’re designing for Ambush versus Dior Men, does your creative mindset change much?
“A new creative director at a house such as Dior marks a new chapter — research gets pulled from the past and is layered with their vision. Mr Dior was a gallerist so [new artistic director of menswear] Kim Jones collaborates with an artist each season. I play close attention to where Kim is taking the clothes, the artist’s work and recurring elements such as the logos and motifs. We are where Mr Dior was in the 1950s. Ambush almost feels like my child and right now, it’s a teenager so I need to take care of it in order for it to grow.”
You’re renowned for your work with musicians including Pharrell Williams and Kanye West. What do you love most about what fashion and music create when they come together?
“Music puts you in different headspaces. I need music to get into a certain mood and I start seeing things more clearly when I listen to music so it’s important when I’m designing.
“An actor’s job is to play a role, but with musicians it’s about self expression — in the way they sing, perform, dress — it all comes from them. I love [working with] musicians because we help them establish their world.”
Are you listening to anything in particular right now?
“I’ve just been listening to Benji B’s Radio 1 guest mix.”
You were born in South Korea and lived in California and Hawaii before your family settled in Seattle. How has your upbringing influenced you as a designer?
“I’ve lived in so many different places and I’ve been exposed to so many different people from a young age. It’s helped me to keep my mind open, I don’t resist things; I embrace them, I’m curious. If I’d been brought up in one place, I don’t think I’d have this mindset.”
What ultimately led you to make Tokyo your home?
“Despite the language barrier, I felt comfortable as soon as I moved here. The standard of living is so high: everything is clean, you don’t have to worry about crime, I can walk down the street at 3am and feel safe.”
Your background is in graphic design. Are there pros and cons to not having studied fashion when you have your own label?
“School, of course, has its benefits but sometimes what you learn just isn’t applicable. Working every day became my class and it frees you in many ways. It wasn’t easy at the beginning but with Google you can do anything (that’s how I found our manufacturers). If you want something, you find a way.”
You’ve amassed 540k followers on Instagram alone. How important is social media to your work and do you feel pressure to maintain your digital presence?
“People are seeking intimacy in design. At one time, designers stayed in the background, but now everyone wants direct contact. A great way to do that is through social media. It’s fun to see what people are up to and it keeps me on my toes.
“No one’s a master at the beginning, so I did feel pressure then. Now I have a strong sense of who I am. There’s no right or wrong way — who says you have to post three times a day? Social media is like a buffet, if you eat everything then you’re going to get sick, so you have to choose what you want and have fun. For me, that’s discovering new artists, musicians and designers.”
It’s been a year like no other. What have been the biggest challenges for you and your brand?
“Not being able to travel and having to approve designs over Zoom or by email. I’m very tactile, I like working with my hands and I get a lot out of physically seeing materials. But I think the hardest thing is that we’re all so segmented right now — people give people energy.”
What’s next for Ambush?
“We’re opening shops around Japan and planning to expand more in China. We’re also creating curated content on our website called Ambush Universe, which includes the artists we love, Ambush archives and our philosophies.”
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Liam FreemanCredit
Lead image: Ethan James Green
