In 2018, Chinese designer, Xiang Gao, founded the brand Penultimate in New York. The brand is named “Penultimate” not to mock itself, but to symbolize a state of unfinished business, embodying “to be continued” by unraveling unique stories through design. The designer explores culture and craftsmanship every season, cleverly combining 1970s wearable art concepts with traditional Chinese culture by mixing traditional materials and modern silhouettes, leading people into a new world full of imagination and storytelling.
Can you tell us the meaning behind the brand name Penultimate? How did it first start?
Penultimate means second to last. It is often used to describe the penultimate chapter of a novel—I like that it gives people a sense of anticipation because you don’t know what will happen next. I hope that my brand can evoke this same sense of uncertainty and make people curious about its next steps. Penultimate also has a calm and relaxed attitude that I like, which is not common in the fashion industry.
Before founding the brand, I worked with Raf Simons, Pieter Mulier, and Matthieu Blazy to design knitwear at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC. After this experience, I decided it was time to stop working for other New York brands and to create my very own.
Can you use 3 words to define the style or aesthetics of Penultimate?
Surreal, wearable, art.
Clothes are not just items to wear, but ways to express your thoughts. Clothes are full of vitality.
Xiang Gao
What is the inspiration and overall concept of the 2025 Spring/Summer collection? How is it different from previous collections?
Every season has a different story. The theme of the 2025 Spring/Summer collection is “Zhuang Zhou Dreaming of the Butterfly”. The METs Sleeping Beauty exhibition last May sourced a lot of inspiration. After that, when I started this season, I started using different textures and materials, such as fur, shells, rhinestones… but I spent less time on a specific concept.
It wasn’t until after taking the styling photos, I decided on the title “Zhuang Zhou Dreaming of the Butterfly.” So, the development process of this season was quite abstract, unlike the previous 2024 Fall/Winter collection, “Chairs,” which had a very clear concept from the beginning.
How do you view the concept of wearable art, and how does it influence your design? How do you create designs that resonate with other people?
I believe there is an interesting boundary between art and clothing. But I enjoy playing with it and challenging people’s “common sense.” I think clothes are not just a set of garments to wear; they are channels for expression. Clothes are full of life!
I’m curious about your process of creating a collection. What do you think is the most important part of the design process?
Everything is important. I start by observing, reflecting, and researching, then move on to making the pieces. I then use my look book, where I summarize and refine entire concepts and ideas. And finally, the showroom installation gives a sense of reality and atmosphere. All of these are crucial parts of the design process.
Congratulations on being selected as a semi-finalist for the LVMH prize—How are you feeling about this? What are your next steps for the brand?
Thank you! I don’t really have many expectations. Perhaps the next goal for Penultimate, having placed second, is finals!
Translated by Dionne Wong
Photography: Edwin Zheng
Styling: Kyle Tang
On Set Stylist: Chaguan
Models: Yan Wenjin @Sparking Talents & Zhili Dai @Divine Model Management
Casting Director: Marina Fairfax
Producer: Bunny Zhang
Makeup Artist: Zhanen He
Hair Stylist: Lyn
Photography Assistant: Haiming Huang
