Things to know in fashion right now: Gucci is once again the hottest brand on the planet after Balenciaga stole the crown for nine solid months, Dolce & Gabbana is creeping back into mainstream luxury fashion thanks to its sponsorship of Kravis’s wedding, and Diesel is in the top 10 most popular labels for the first time. There have, then, been some changes to the old guard.
The most hyped product list, as per Lyst’s Q2 report, also reveals some home truths. Normally a tick list of Gucci’s latest shoes and Balenciaga’s new It-bag, the biggest brands have had to make space for some hot-ticket newcomers. Thanks to designer of the moment Glenn Martin’s revamp of Diesel, its 1DR bag has rocketed to the top spot.
After Megan Thee Stallion and Julia Fox wore the compact shoulder bag bearing the brand’s oval plaque logo, searches spiked 317 per cent in June. Even Balenciaga’s Le Cagole bag, championed by a galaxy of stars, could not beat the 1DR in terms of consumer searches. In fact, Balenciaga’s croissant-shaped shoulder style sits in fourth place after the pink Gucci X Adidas Gazelle trainers and Jean Paul Gaultier’s new-look naked dress, fashioned with the help of mega stylist Lotta Volkova. Translation: the Y2K It-bag has managed to trump the biggest collaborations in the world.
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What’s so special about this sell-out bag style that comes in both matte and mirror finishes and a handful of colourways? Its price point, for one. Retailing from £225 to £425, this is a snip of the cost of, say, a Le Cagole, which comes in at anywhere between £850 and £2,200. The bold-faced graphic also resonates in an era of nostalgia, when Gen-Z customers are revisiting the hallmarks of millenium-bug style with fresh eyes and a taste for skin-flashing fashion.
“The Diesel logo for me as an adolescent was so powerful,” Martens tells British Vogue of the secret to the 1DR’s success. “An emblematic representation of what it means to be free, sexy and included. The ‘D’ in itself reminds us of strength and possibilities. It seemed like a natural step to feature it on our line of accessories. It’s great to see people responding to it so well. I love seeing people wearing it on the street.”
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The “affordable” handbag (we’re aware we’re talking from the realm of luxury fashion) mirrors other items in this season’s top 10 buys. Miu Miu’s crochet hat, Loewe’s basket bag and that Fendace swimsuit all scored places and all retail for £500. When it comes to capturing consumer attention, nothing signposts a success story quite like a price tag that not only the elite can buy. The final proof? Jaded London – a brand that might have previously remained unknown if it weren’t for the parachute pants comeback – crept into Q2’s hit list thanks to its £65 cargo trousers.
The message is clear: Collabs are paying off (Adidas has also jumped up the brand run-down and now sits in 13th place), and accessibility is key (Ralph Lauren caps, Levi’s shorts, Nike trainers and slides, and Birkenstock clogs make up the men’s most-searched for product list). What does this mean for the future of fashion? Just when you thought we’d reached peak tie-up, suddenly there’s space for more. Look out for further high-low unions from designer labels looking to diversify their customer base in the coming months. Now we know it seriously pays off.
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Alice Newbold