Pink Clothes For Men? Breaking From Convention, The Barbiecore Trend Shows That All Colours, Even Pink, Don’t Need Gender

Among the few household beliefs that we are brought up with, colour-gender distinction is one of them: pink being for girls and blue being for boys. From the confetti at gender reveal parties to a newborn’s first clothes, to then a universe of toys, accessories and garments that seem to trace a binary and irreversible destiny: it still remains true that pink is for girls and blue is for boys. 

But it is precisely in this day and age that genders, values and even fashion can be fluid. Utilising every shade and hue, we now find ourselves redesigning our chromatic geography and perhaps, even freeing our wardrobes from the orthodox confines of gender ideology. 

On 9 July, Los Angeles hosted the premiere of highly anticipated movie, Barbie, – part celebration, part parody, part metaliterature – that director Greta Gerwig has created to dismantle stereotypes. One of the main ones include Barbie being stereotyped as a “dumb blonde”, obsessed with the colour pink, which infiltrates everything she owns, from her clothes to her cars, all housed in her extravagant Malibu villas. But, in this new adaptation, we will be seeing Ken, or rather the various Ken incarnations, in outfits and accessories in a thousand shades of pink. 

Acne
Acne Studios SS23
Photo: Courtesy of Acne Studios

Acne Studios SS23

Photo: Courtesy of Acne Studios

Comme
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus AW23
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus AW23

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Isabel
Isabel Marant AW23
Photo: Courtesy of Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant AW23

Photo: Courtesy of Isabel Marant

In recent years, the Valentino maestro Pierpaolo Piccioli has made statements with hot pink, be it a flashy feminine evening dress, a pair of trainers or a men’s suit. Pink is not just a colour but also a manifesto: Elsa Schiaparelli made her mark at the start of the 20th century when she packaged her perfume “Shocking!” in hot pink – the same shocking pink that became her symbol as well as that of many other designers after her.

The journey from the feminine particular to the genderless universal is part of a long process in breaking free from these conceptual shackles. After all, the pink-child/blue-child dichotomy is far from being a historical and eternal truth: as explained expertly in an essay by Jo B. Paoletti, Pink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America, published over ten years ago in the US. The author has spent decades studying the reasons and periods in which the two colours came to be identified as sexual opposites. 

In fact, she found that until the late 19th century, the colour for babies had always been white – for ease of sanitation – and that actually, there was a traditional preference for blue for girls, which took after Mary’s mantle. Whereas, it was pink that was associated with boys given that it was considered a paler version of red (and therefore younger) and the colour par excellence of warriors, kings and popes. An article from June 1918 in the Earnshaw Infants’ Department says this: ‘The generally accepted colour for boys is pink, for girls blue’.

Martine
Martine Rose AW23
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com

Martine Rose AW23

Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com

Brioni
Brioni SS23
Photo: Courtesy of Brioni

Brioni SS23

Photo: Courtesy of Brioni

Craig
Craig Green SS23
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Craig Green SS23

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

At a certain point however, there came a tendency for standardisation: at the dawn of the 20th century, designers such as Schiapparelli pigeonholed pink into the female mould. Today, Barbiecore and other trends are leading us towards a liberated vision of colours, where gender and conventions don’t matter. Anyone should be able to rock pink. 

Below we have gathered examples of products you could style to nail Barbiecore:

#1 The Shirt 

Ami

Ami Paris embroidered heart logo shirt

HK$2300

Farfetch

Dsquared

Dsquared2 logo-print cotton shirt

HK$3242

Farfetch

Marni

Marni logo-embroidered Cuban-collar shirt

HK$5400

Farfetch

Ambush

AMBUSH buttoned bowling shirt

HK$3800

Farfetch

Sandro

Sandro starfish-print short-sleeve shirt

HK$2090

Farfetch

#2 The Trouser

Marni

Marni mid-rise straight-leg jeans

HK$5500

Farfetch

Versace

Versace wide leg formal pants

HK$7600

Versace

Natasha

Natasha Zinko faux-leather heart-pocket trousers

HK$5509

Farfetch

Chloe

Chloe Nardin wide-leg drawstring trousers

HK$4672

Farfetch

Off-white

Off-White spray logo track pants

HK$7075

Farfetch

Paccbet

Paccbet abstract-print five-pocket straight-leg trousers

HK$1907

Farfetch

#3 The Shoe

Adidas

Adidas Originals Bermuda suede sneakers

HK$765

END Clothing

Adidas x Pharrell Williams Samba Humanrace 'Pink' sneakers

HK$7820

Farfetch

Andersson

Andersson Bell Pink Broeils 23 Penny Loafers

HK$4390

SSENSE

Alexander

Alexander McQueen White Larry Sneakers

HK$7100

SSENSE

CamperLab

CamperLab pink Venga boots

HK$3970

SSENSE

#4 The Overcoat

Ami

Ami Paris tweed single-breasted coat

HK$13500

Farfetch

Burberry

Burberry Equestrian Knight-motif parka coat

HK$29500

Farfetch

Valentino

Valentino Garavani nylon bomber jacket

HK$20800

Valentino

Greg

Greg Lauren single-breasted wool-blend coat

HK$21109

Farfetch

Valentino Garavani Stud short cape coat

HK$17719

Farfetch

#5 The Hoodie/ Sweatshirt 

Dior

Dior by ERL oversized sweatshirt

HK$12500

Dior

Valentino

Valentino cotton hooded sweatshirt with VLTN print in Pink PP

HK$7800

Valentino

Ami

AMI Paris logo-intarsia wool cardigan

HK$4700

Farfetch

Barrow

Barrow logo-print Cotton Hoodie

HK$1680

Farfetch

Palm

Palm Angels Bear hoodie

HK$5402

Farfetch

#6 The Accessory

Saint

Saint Laurent Eyewear rectangle-frame sunglasses

HK$2170

Farfetch

Gentle

Gentle Monster transparent-oval-frame sunglasses

HK$2315

Farfetch

We11done

We11done embroidered logo cap

HK$945

Farfetch

Acne

Acne Studios face-patch ribbed-knit beanie

HK$1400

Farfetch

Jacquemus

Jacquemus oversized luggage bag

HK$6746

Farfetch

Translated by Christy Lam