Early in October, Bottega Veneta presented its spring/summer 2021 collection in London, shrouded in secrecy. Captured by Tyrone Lebon, two small, socially distanced shows were staged at Sadler’s Wells Theatre: the first, for a small array of industry editors; later, for the celebrities besotted with Daniel Lee’s designs. Everything we witnessed was under embargo. Now, two months later, the brand has finally unveiled the collection – here are five things you need to know.

The spring collection was shrouded in secrecy

Way back in autumn, what feels almost like a lifetime ago, a small industry group formed a socially-distanced queue in the rain outside a north London theatre. There were no street-style photographers in attendance; no throngs of fans hoping to get a glimpse of a celebrity. It felt suitably reserved for what was, for many editors, our first fashion show since Covid-19 took hold of the world. Upon entry to a showspace bathed in neon green light (Bottega has recently staked a claim on the saturated shade; it felt a bit like being inside one of their shoe boxes), editors were each shown to folding chairs spaced two metres apart from one another. It was a notable shift from a regular fashion show affair, where trading in gossip pre-show is de rigueur. But, instead of scrolling Instagram, we all sat quietly waiting for the show to start (on entry, we had each been provided with green pouches to zip our phones into; no secret snaps allowed here). It felt more like a salon show than the frenzy which Fashion Week has become in recent years – and was rather zen.

It was a family affair

How to ensure a fashion show commands global attention, even when nobody outside can see the clothes, and the front row pictures can’t be beamed across the world? Invite Kanye West, dressed in leather Bottega trousers, and his daughter, North, dressed in a giant “Vote Kanye” hoodie. Whether it was Daniel Lee’s family sat alongside Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault and wife Salma Hayek Pinault, who all attended the first showing, or Kanye and his daughter alongside Skepta and his daughter River, who attended the second, alongside Stormzy, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Neneh Cherry, the occasion was something of a family affair. Suffice to say, headlines were instantly made.

Intimacy is the statement of the season

The spirit of intimacy permeated the collection itself which, according to the voiceover that constituted much of the soundtrack (arranged by Neneh Cherry), was dedicated to one’s personal connection to clothing. “I use the things I put on my body as a form of protection; clothes give me courage,” a woman’s voice intoned over the speaker system, as wooden-beaded dresses click-clacked past the audience. “It’s armour that you can fly in.” In early December, those who had been in attendance earlier in the year were offered a refresher course in the collection, by way of a bag which arrived at each of our homes filled with three books and a record intended to illuminate the inspirations behind the clothes. One of them was filled with quotes from different people reflecting on their own wardrobes, collated by the conceptual German artist Rosemarie Trockel. “I collect vintage T-shirts. I love the idea that a piece of degraded clothing can hold kudos and value, despite its simplicity,” said one. Another: “My grandfather’s white dress shirt is close to my heart. It is the only piece of clothing that really holds meaning for me in a visceral way. It’s only a piece of fabric, neatly and purposefully sewn together, but wearing it feels unlike anything else. I’m with him.” Lee was leaning into that energy.

Vintage allure was made newly desirable

Using those quotes as a springboard, the clothing reflected a sort of hand-me-down sentimentality, made – of course – newly luxurious. Since Lee’s appointment at Bottega, his eye for off-kilter elegance and subverted realism have become defining codes of the house – and rather than appearing retro, these were historic tropes explored through his idiosyncratic perspective (and some exceptional craftwork). The minimalist cuts of ’90s-style suits; the chunky knitwear of the ’70s, or fluid dresses formed of intricate crochet; and the gently corseted fit-and-flare silhouettes he has explored in recent seasons all featured. It looked very appealing, a collection with the sorts of pieces you always want to find on a vintage hunt, now made modern. During a period where fashion’s fixation for the new feels, well, rather dated, it certainly resonated – and the abundance of techniques which went into creating each look offered the tactile allure we’re all craving right now.

The accessories were banging

Between the soundtrack and the books, and Daniel Lee’s rather cerebral approach to fashion, there is plenty of philosophising that can be done about Bottega SS21. “What is beauty? The rough and the smooth. The straight, the narrow, and the inside open,” said one of the women on the voiceover. We could question the meaning of fashion, and beauty, and clothing, all day long – but for those simply looking for a new handbag: rest assured, there are plenty here. Lee’s accessories have become a staple in wardrobes across the world, from editors to celebrities, from Neneh Cherry to Kylie Jenner – and that dominance shows no sign of abating now. Knitted pouches are sure to be everywhere next summer; so too are the slightly sculptural ’90s platforms and strappy sandals which I basically wanted to grab off someone’s foot. Reverse bum-bags with seatbelt fastenings are hands-free Instagram gold. The final scrawl I wrote in my notebook, written as the illuminated backdrop turned into a sundown gradient for the finale? “PERFECT SUMMER WARDROBE.” It’s certainly that. And let’s hope that, next summer, we can all go out in it because we’ll look – and feel – great.