I feel most comfortable in an old pair of jeans, Converse, and a man’s jersey. My best friend cuts my hair with kitchen scissors.
Jane Birkin
Few figures have shaped the image of “ French girl style” quite like Jane Birkin. Ironic, perhaps, given that she was English by birth. The icon, who passed away on 16 July 2023 at the age of 76, remains a defining figure of 1960s and 1970s fashion. Often photographed alongside longtime paramour Serge Gainsbourg, Birkin became the poster girl for the era’s free-spirited sensuality, sporting barely-there mini dresses, thigh-high boots, and flared denim paired with a white tee. Her style was boyish yet impossibly chic with the perfect amount of provocative. Maybe most emblematic of her look was the straw basket she brought everywhere from Paris streets to red carpets. It later inspired the creation of the Hermès Birkin bag, now one of the most coveted luxury accessories in history.
Her style legacy lies in the way she defined femininity— playful, sensual, and effortless. As Birkin herself once said, “ My look is a cocktail. I’m not as nicely tuned out as the French, but I don’t care like the English.” It was this nonchalant elegance and charm that made her a lifelong muse for generations of women. From the rise of the “no-makeup makeup” look to tousled bangs and oversized t-shirts, Birkin’s understated aesthetic remains a blueprint for contemporary style. For a closer look at her impact on fashion, revisit our tribute to her enduring legacy here.
The “Naked” Dress, Slogan Premiere, 1969
August 28, 1969 wearing iconic "naked" dress at 'Slogan' premiere with Serge Gainsbourg in Paris, France
Photo: Yves LE ROUX/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Worn completely see-through with Carel Mary-Janes and her signature basket, this micro black knit dress became one of the most defining images of late ‘60s fashion. Birkin claimed she hadn’t realised just how sheer it was until camera flashes hit, a cheeky moment that captured her accidental boldness, cementing her status as a style icon unbothered by convention.
Pin It and Go, Artist’s Union Gala, 1973
Birkin apparently wore this gown backwards to reveal a plunging neckline in which she fastened together with a brooch. This floor-length white crochet dress walked the line between romantic and risqué—a casually daring choice that felt instinctive rather than calculated, perfectly capturing that Birkin ease so many try to emulate.
The Off Duty Formula, Cannes, 1970
January 1, 1970 with Serge Gainsbourg in the South of France
Photo: REPORTERS ASSOCIES/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
A casual look that still circulates in modern wardrobes. Birkin pairs white mid-rise jeans with a matching cropped lace top and loafers, topped off with a belt, layered necklaces and her trusty wicker basket. Even off-duty, she mastered a balance of femininity and comfort.
Denim on Denim, Don Juan, or If Don Juan Were a Woman, 1973
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Unbuttoned, studded, and completely iconic. This head-to-toe denim look (she wears a similar one in La Piscine) captures Birkin’s laid-back but still chic style. Denim was a personal uniform, often patched and flared. She wore it with everything, from oversized knits to graphic tees.
The Lived-in Birkin,
May 9, 2008 holding her decorated Birkin bag at a meeting with international solitary organisations at the Elysee Palace in Paris, France
Photo: Thomas SAMSON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
The Birkin bag was born from a chance encounter between Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight, where she sketched her ideal carryall on an airplane sick bag. Despite it being a global status symbol today, Birkin insisted that a good bag should be “kicked around” and lived in. She covered hers in stickers, scribbles, overflowing with everyday clutter— the bag wasn’t about clout but utility, style, and personality.
Editor
Talia Tom
