Black-tie dress code” is up there with “black ice” in the terror stakes. It rivals “black hole” with its power to confuse and befuddle. As for “black sheep”? It’s easy to feel like one, if you manage to confound a collective decision to dress in a highly unambiguous manner for a terrifyingly specific occasion.
In a world where attire is becoming increasingly casual across the board, dress code dilemmas are ten-a-penny. Fresh hell: the unhelpful cipher that simply serves to confuse – “evening”, “business casual”, “hipster formal”, “a touch of glamour” stated in tiny italics – and gives no hint as to what is de rigueur.
Even Diana Vreeland, that legendary arbiter of taste, is no help here. While her aphorism that “unshined shoes are the end of civilisation” still holds, her advice on black-tie dress code events is less constructive: “The best time to leave a party is when the party’s just beginning. There’s no drink that kills except the drink that you didn’t want to take, as the saying goes, and there’s no hour that kills except the hour you stayed after you wanted to go home.”
So, we know when to leave. But how to arrive – and in what look? Here’s Vogue’s guide to decoding the black-tie dress code on your party invites this season:
What does black-tie dress code actually mean?
“A black bow tie worn with a dinner jacket,” the dictionary helpfully posits. “Less formal than white tie… worn for dinners, parties and balls, as well as some Season events such as Glyndebourne,” adds Debrett’s. It all hinges, however, on the host. One man’s “dress to impress” is another man’s “barely-there Balmain mini dress”. Which may well be impressive – but entirely wrong for a charity gala. In the first instance, don’t be afraid to text your host for clarification on what level of formality they are expecting their guests to respect, as well as what they are planning to wear.
Mrs. William McManus, Vogue fashion editor, 1955
Photo: Joseph Leombruno/Condé Nast via Getty Images
What’s the best way to navigate black-tie dress code?
Simply put, black-tie best translates as “long”, and in an evening-appropriate fabric, such a velvet, chiffon, silk or lace. A cocktail dress – shorter, possibly ritzier – might cut it if your host is of a relaxed nature, but it’s best to assume that a floor-sweeping number (or a tuxedo situation) is expected.
How can I predict how smart an event will be?
There will be clues. Firstly, consider the invitation medium. The thicker the woven stock of your pigeon post (and the more fanciful the calligraphy); the smarter the event. If the summons came in via Facebook or Whats’app, you can relax a little. Don’t let Paperless Post confuse you – just because the invite came flurrying over via email doesn’t mean it’s not a floor-length affair. Text message should also be respected: it’s a method that suggests, “I’m so casual with my invitations” but means “rhinestones are encouraged”.
Vogue 1952
Photo: John Rawlings/Condé Nast via Getty Images
How can I avoid making a wardrobe faux pas?
Get hold of the guest list. This provides you with both legions of people to quiz about their interpretation of the dress code, and handy intel if you’re considering repeat-wearing an old favourite (N.B. this is no longer a faux pas – it simply shows you know your style). Above all, you don’t want to turn up wearing the same dress as someone else. If the worst happens, create an Instagram story immediately, then keep well away from your doppelgänger.
What shoes should I wear?
Scope out the location. Gravel, paving, lawn, parquet floor? Assess the routes you might need to take over the course of the evening and prepare to park the stilettos. Or, if you simply must wear your new crystal-strewn Gianvito Rossi metallic sandals, find a willing squire to ferry you across danger areas. (On that note, never, ever take your shoes off on the dancefloor. You may step on a rogue shard of glass – or another guest may step on you. Either way, it’s never chic.)
Can I wear black?
Absolutely. There’s a reason why everyone else is wearing it. Just make sure your accessories are ice-breaker status – your host will appreciate the effort you’ve made. And if all else fails, buy a cluster of diamante brooches and pile them on to lapels and necklines – or in messy, bed-head hair. Tell everyone they’re heirlooms and prepare to sparkle.
Originally published on British Vogue.
Editor
ELLIE PITHERS
