Painter’s Palette

From opaque swatches of pigment to ethereal washes of watercolour, painterly makeup was on the cards for Spring/Summer 2020. At Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Siriano and Nicole Miller, eyelids became palettes for a rainbow of hues, whereas Sies Marjan, Jason Wu, and Richard Quinn looked to transparent veils of colour that extended from the eye to the cheekbones. Bare faces were lifted with single-colour statements at Jonathan Cohen and Ulla Johnson, while Cividini, Antonio Marras, and Oscar de la Renta revved up standard shadow-and-liner looks with vibrant colour combos.

Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Nicole Miller Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Christian Siriano Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jonathan Cohen Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Cividini Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Antonio Marras Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Richard Quinn Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Sies Marjan Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Nicole Miller Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Christian Siriano Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jonathan Cohen Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Cividini Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Antonio Marras Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Richard Quinn Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Sies Marjan Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
1 / 12

Graphic Impact

Animated doodles, geometric lines, and striking neons framed eyes with graphic impact. Makeup artists took to the skies with playful cloud shapes and winged illustrations at Anna Sui, Cynthia Rowley, Peter Pilotto and Mansur Gavriel; fluoro-bright blocks of neon flashed out at Jeremy Scott, Helmut Lang and MSGM; doll-like lashes and feathered fringes were drawn on with eyeliner at Marc Jacobs, Ralph & Russo and Simone Rocha; and sharp linear designs made bold visuals at Matty Bovan, Anais Jourden, and Mugler

Anna Sui Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Cynthia Rowley Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Peter Pilotto Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Mansur Gavriel Autumn/Winter 2019 presentation during NYFW Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Courreges Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
MSGM Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Ralph & Russo Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Matty Bovan Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Anais Jourden Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Mugler Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Anna Sui Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Cynthia Rowley Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Peter Pilotto Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Mansur Gavriel Autumn/Winter 2019 presentation during NYFW Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Courreges Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
MSGM Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Ralph & Russo Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Matty Bovan Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Anais Jourden Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Mugler Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
1 / 14

Glitter Eyes

Glittery eyes sparked a trend on the Spring/Summer 2020 runways with dazzling colour, texture and shape. There were galaxy-like clusters of shimmer at House of Holland and Pyer Moss, the “morning-after” traces of sparkle at Fendi, and the clean-edged metallic cat-eyes at Balmain and Valentino. Pat McGrath showed us a dozen ways to twinkle at Marc Jacobs, and Off-White gave models a “Meteor Shower” of sequins across the bridge of the nose.

House of Holland Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Pyer Moss Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Tomo Koizumi Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Fendi Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Balmain Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Valentino Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Off-White Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Off-White Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
House of Holland Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Pyer Moss Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Tomo Koizumi Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Fendi Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Balmain Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Valentino Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Off-White Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Off-White Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
1 / 12

Kohl Blocking

Thick, black liner gave a heavy hand of punk glamour this season with everything from blacked-out lids to chunky cat-eyes. 3.1 Phillip Lim and MSGM debuted sharply-defined opaque top lids while Prada did similar with a cut-crease twist. We saw a touch of disco glamour on Halpern’s jet black cat-eyes, while smudgey inked rims displayed cool-girl ease at Ann Demeulemeester and Celine.

Halpern Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Prada Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
MSGM Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Celine Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Halpern Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Prada Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
MSGM Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Celine Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
1 / 7

Lip Service

Bold lips delivered simple, striking elegance on the Spring/Summer 2020 runways in a spectrum of moody hues. Complexion-brightening reds were slightly blotted at the edges at Emilia Wickstead and Prabal Gurung; inky wine-stained pouts lured with sophistication at Jil Sander; and sharp black-painted lips supplied fierce confidence at Max Mara and Marques’Almeida. For shades more traditionally associated with the warmer seasons, there were pastel lilacs at Self-Portrait and glossy, over-lined ‘80s crimson lips at Louis Vuitton.

Prabal Gurung Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Emilia Wickstead Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Max Mara Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Self-Portrait Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Prabal Gurung Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Emilia Wickstead Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Max Mara Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Self-Portrait Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
1 / 7

Decked-Out Eyes

This season, next-level eye adornments pushed the boundaries of beauty with free reign artistry. At Giambattista Valli, Isamaya Ffrench adorned models’ glossy complexions with real flowers for sculptural ethereality; Manish Arora saw makeup artist Kabuki go to town with colourful embellishments and faux butterfly wings; Schiaparelli and Area made it rain rhinestones from the brows to the cheeks; and Gucci channeled surrealist vibes with spider lashes as eyebrows. On the more approachable end of the spectrum, there were iridescent sticker wings at Iceberg and dainty pearl studs at Dries Van Noten.

Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Manish Arora Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Area Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Gucci Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Olivier Theyskens Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Iceberg Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Manish Arora Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Area Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Gucci Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Olivier Theyskens Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Iceberg Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
1 / 8