Graphic Liner

Valentino Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Miu Miu Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Stella McCartney Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Dior Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Celine Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Miu Miu Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Stella McCartney Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Dior Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Celine Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Getty Images
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Inky black liner stole the spotlight for this season’s runway beauty. At Valentino, Pat McGrath drew graphic lines on the crease and below the lash line, adding small black crystals for a goth-punk glamour; at Miu Miu, she painted lids with double cat eyeliner; and at Stella McCartney, she gave models thin floating lines above the crease or at the corners for a stroke of minimalism. At Dior, Peter Philips gave models chunky black kohl that was drawn on imperfectly for a rocker chic attitude, while Aaron de Mey created a mod look with thick strokes of black in the crease and on the lower lash line at Celine.

Metallic Eyes

Erdem Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Simone Rocha Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Prada Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Halpern Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Erdem Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Simone Rocha Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Prada Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Valentino Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Halpern Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
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High impact silver foil lids at Erdem gave grunge beauty an ethereal appeal while Simone Rocha debuted deconstructed tinsel eyes in metallic black, red, and pastel pink. At Prada, a cyber futuristic look was created with thick blocks of duo chrome shadow painted across lids, whereas at Halpern, Isamaya Ffrench framed eyes with 3D crystals arranged in starburst patterns.

Smudged lids

Max Mara Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Olivier Theyskens Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Gucci Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Max Mara Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Olivier Theyskens Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Gucci Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
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Inky smudged lids created a tough-chic look at Louis Vuitton and Olivier Theyskens, with a slightly glossy sheen and clean edges, while Max Mara finished the look with jagged edges. Elsewhere, Gucci featured teary liner that ran down from the lower lash line for a more theatrical take.

’80s Glam

Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Prabal Gurung Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Altuzarra Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Prabal Gurung Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Altuzarra Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
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‘80s glam was abound in two-toned eye shadow looks. At Dries Van Noten, Inge Grognard applied swatches of vibrant blue, pink, purple and yellow on the lid and below the lash line, completing the “more is more” look with a saturated red lip. Prabal Gurung channeled Cleopatra with electric blue lids and thick-winged liner; Margiela’s cut creases and technicoloured brows leaned more avant-garde; and Altuzarra’s metallic ombre wings in deep shades of eggplant and teal presented a modern, wearable look.

Luminous Complexions

Brandon Maxwell Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Backstage at Oscar de la Renta Autumn/Winter 2020
Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
JW Anderson Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Victoria Beckham Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Versace Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Christopher Kane Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Filippo Fortis / Gorunway.com
Brandon Maxwell Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Getty Images
Backstage at Oscar de la Renta Autumn/Winter 2020
Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
JW Anderson Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Victoria Beckham Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Versace Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Christopher Kane Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Filippo Fortis / Gorunway.com
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Fresh-faced, clean beauty at Bottega Veneta, JW Anderson, and Salvatore Ferragamo let the clothes do the talking with a dewiness highlighting the models’ natural features. The beauty team at Brandon Maxwell and Oscar de la Renta prepped models’ complexions with 111Skin Black Diamond eye masks and facials, Victoria Beckham and Versace channeled soft minimalism with subtle contouring and a soft sheen on the cheekbones, while Christopher Kane emphasised a youthful look with glossy lids and lips.

Classic Red Lip

Oscar de la Renta Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Hermès Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Carolina Herrera Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jil Sander Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Oscar de la Renta Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Hermès Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Carolina Herrera Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Jil Sander Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2020
Photo: Imaxtree
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The bold allure and simplicity of a red lip prevailed on the AW20 runways, ranging from the punchy ‘80s pout at Saint Laurent to the sleek and classic styles at Jil Sander. Makeup artists at Givenchy channeled a darker mood with a crimson lip while those at Oscar de la Renta created a bespoke shade of tomato red by mixing MAC’s Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour in ‘Feels So Grand’ and ‘Quite the Standout’. This season also saw Hermès’ new lipsticks in action on the runway, as well as Caroline Herrera’s own makeup line, which is set to launch this March.