American restaurateur Daniel Meyer once said, “A cocktail done right is like a meal in itself.” Mixologists work their magic to ensure each sip is an entire adventure by itself, but can this be achieved without the unique flavours and textures that spirits bring? These three Hong Kong bars prove that mocktails are just as multifaceted.
Mostly Harmless
When Mostly Harmless ran into issues with its liquor license, they turned the setback into an opportunity, pivoting instead to an alcohol-free bar. “Being non-alcoholic only is pretty simple for us, it’s the same. We’re serving people, not drinks,” says owner Ezra Star. “Mostly Harmless has never been about alcohol—it’s about taking care of people. I created this bar as a tool for people to get to know each other and to have an environment they feel safe and comfortable in. So rather than focus on what we don’t have, I said ‘Let’s focus on what we do have and what we can do’.”
The decision was met with mixed reactions from the public, Mostly Harmless regulars, and even the bar’s team. Many struggle to wrap their heads around the idea of a bar that doesn’t serve alcohol, and even less so that the craft of non-alcoholic cocktails can be just as complex as that of traditional cocktails. But the Mostly Harmless drinks speak for themselves. Continuing to adhere to the farm-to-glass philosophy that the bar has championed since its inception, the four cocktails on the menu change weekly depending on what Mostly Harmless’ farm partners have on hand. One week could be all about mangoes and beets, and the next its mushrooms and roselle (as pictured above). On top of this, Star and her team make everything completely from scratch. That means forgoing non-alcoholic spirits that can simply be bought, and instead concocting various juices, teas, ferments and vinegars that mimic the flavours and textures of alcoholic spirits.
“Everybody that comes in deserves to have something that makes them feel like [the drink] is worth their time. People drink non-alcoholic drinks pretty quickly so the way you make these cocktails has to change a lot. You have to give it more body, more texture, and make it take longer to drink. So maybe the bitterness is up, or the sourness is up a little bit—but in a balanced way. Just like any other cocktail, there are so many elements that give [our drinks] complexity.”
110 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun; @mostlyharmlessbar
Montana
Lorenzo Antinori and Simone Caporale are not merely long-time friends, but cocktail industry veterans with shared values on their craft. Their first-ever collaboration is a new bar opening along Hollywood Road in mid-July. A love letter to the classics, Montana draws inspiration from the spirit of 1970s Florida and Cuban mixology. During the 1970s, many Cubans emigrated to the United States and brought with them a local cocktail culture that continues to influence modern mixology around the world today.
“Cuban drinks are very far away from the general perception people have about tropical cocktails. There are no pineapple cups, orchid flowers, fire and tiki drinks. Cuban drinks are elegant serves,” explains Antinori. For Montana’s bar program, guests can expect storied classics—think the Daiquiri, Piña Colada, and El Presidente—that all respect the DNA of each cocktail whilst introducing new techniques and flavours. The mocktails too will follow this philosophy, as evidenced by the Fig Leaf Highball. The drink is a fusion of two unique mixtures: water infused with bell peppers and a homemade cordial made from macerated pineapple chunks and fig leaves—an ingredient that brings an unexpectedly tropical flavour reminiscent of a coconut.
108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan; @montanabarhk
The Old Man
Hidden below street level behind a nondescript black door lies The Old Man. The award-winning bar opened in the summer of 2017 and has since become an essential stop for any Soho bar-hopping experience. The Old Man refers to famed writer Ernest Hemingway, whose life and legacy continues to inspire each and every one of the bar’s menus. The team often begins their creative process with a deep dive into Hemingway’s novels and personal diaries, which recount intriguing stories of travel and an ever-expanding worldview. He had a distinct talent for evoking a sense of place, and it’s a strength The Old Man shares—only through the craft of the cocktail instead of writing.
For instance, the “Make It Back To Nairobi” mocktail narrates Hemingway’s experience in East Africa. “Each sip is designed to capture the duality of his time there—bold and adventurous, yet reflective and grounding,” shares The Old Man. They explain that banana skin soda hints at the tropical yet earthy flavours of Africa, while an unexpectedly purple dollop of salted caramel foam brings richness and warmth, “symbolising the balance between the rugged wilderness and the softer moments Hemingway experienced in Nairobi”.
Lower G/F, 37-29 Aberdeen Street, Soho, Central; @theoldman_hk
Editor
Alyanna Raissa J. Payos
