Brighter sunrays, warm weather, and a slight dampness in the air heralds the arrival of springtime in Hong Kong. With the turn of the meteorological season also comes one of the most delightful gastronomic seasons of all: Brunch Season. We celebrate with a spotlight on toast, a staple brunch dish with endless variations.
Marmo Bistro
Rooted in the true essence of French “art de vivre”, the brunch experience at Marmo Bistro channels the distinct convivial yet sophisticated energy of Montmartre’s vibrant hillside cafés. The menu comprises time-honoured French classics like the saucisson brioche that originates from Lyon, the undisputed gastronomic capital of France. It is a dish families sometimes prepare for precious Sunday meals or special festive gatherings, but is more often associated with the charming traditional bouchons that are a cornerstone of the Lyonnaise cuisine.
At Marmo Bistro, the saucisson brioche takes a rather classic approach with some refinements including a lighter brioche texture and prioritising precision and balance when it comes to the seasoning or accompanying chicken jus, black truffle and Madeira wine sauce. “The goal is to preserve the authentic spirit of the dish, while presenting it in a way that fits the modern and international setting of the restaurant,” says Chef de Cuisine Giovanni Galeota. “The dish starts with a house-made pork sausage with pistachios, inspired by the traditional Lyonnaise saucisson. The pistachios bring a subtle nuttiness and a pleasant texture that contrasts with the richness of the pork.”
When asked what makes a great saucisson brioche Galeota narrows it down to balance and technique. “First, the quality of the saucisson is essential — it must have the right fat content and seasoning. Second, the brioche dough must be perfectly fermented, light and buttery but not overly sweet. Finally, the baking process is crucial to ensure the brioche remains soft while the sausage stays juicy. When these elements are executed properly, the dish becomes both comforting and refined.”
Ground Floor, Rosewood Hong Kong, No. 18, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; @marmobistro
SOMM
As the Mandarin Oriental The Landmark gears up for its official re-opening this spring, some of the hotel’s dining outlets are getting a small facelift of their own. But some things never change—including SOMM’s signature Aka Uni French Toast. The dish debuted alongside the restaurant’s opening back in 2019 and has been loved by regulars ever since.
“Uni is one of Chef Richard’s favourite ingredients, and we wanted to feature it on the SOMM menu in a way that feels special yet seamless,” explains SOMM’s Chef de Cuisine Jason Wolf. “It’s relatively simple and we want the key ingredient, the uni, to shine.”
Housemade finger-length strips of brioche are soaked in a savoury custard mixture kissed with miso for added depth and umami, then seared until golden brown and finished in the oven to achieve that coveted crispy-on-the-outside-tender-on-the-inside bite. Each piece is crowned with a generous row of Aka Uni, glazed with a soy sake mixture, and finished with Sudachi zest and, if you please, a dollop of caviar. While the star of this dish is undoubtedly the über fresh serving of sea urchin, nailing the French toast is crucial. The key? “Great bread, which we make in-house,” says Jason. “We leave it to go stale which allows it to soak up the custard whilst also maintaining its structure.”
7/F, Mandarin Oriental The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central; mandarinoriental.com
Eato
Hailing from what she calls “a world of structure and strategy”, Fiona Zuo left a life in finance to study French cuisine and pastry at Ferrandi Paris. “While living in Paris I immersed myself in the culture of toast, viennoiserie, and plated desserts, learning both technique and philosophy,” she shares. “Finance taught me discipline and precision. Pastry taught me balance and emotion.” Those years quietly forged the blueprint for Eato, a cosy Japanese-inspired brunch café Fiona recently opened in Central.
Toast is central to the menu, with signature and seasonal creations boasting fluffy shokupan courtesy of the café’s partner baker, CUÍT. As dishes are designed in conversation with Eato’s seasonal drinks, Fiona explains that their new Apple Crumble French Toast evolved alongside the Apple and Hibiscus tea. “We began with the memory of a classic apple crumble and gently took it somewhere new. Apple crumble is comforting, but we wanted to reinterpret it with more clarity and lift,” she says. French toast made using Hokkaido milk-enriched sourdough is topped with a glistening mosaic tile of apple and umeshu jelly and vanilla ice cream, while Japanese dango and a generous sprinkle of crumble offer a full range of textures.
86 Wellington Street, Central; @eato_official
Photography: Samantha Sin
Styling: Ella Wong
Editor
Alyanna Raissa J. Payos
