每個女性衣櫥都少不了的恤衫,多由細而厚的梳織物府綢(Poplin)縫製,常見原料包括棉、羊毛或絲,帶有表面橫向羅紋和堅固手感。素雅、淨色的府綢恤衫沒有任何裝飾感,予人認真、莊重的中性印象,所以一直是現代女性最鍾情的氣質衣物。

府綢一詞起源於15世紀產自法國阿維尼翁一種名為papelino的織物,彼時法國教皇居於當地,這種物料因而以教皇的法文“papelaine”命名。在20世紀以前,府綢最普遍用絲、棉混羊毛來造女裝裙子和高級家品。
當代府綢由英國減輕重量改良而成,在1920年代初期,英國製造的棉府綢被引入美國,但美國市場認為poplin一詞與教皇相關,具有沉重的含義,因此將其改名為更隨意的“broadcloth”,大量用於生產男裝恤衫,由於容易熨至「起骨」,令府綢襯衫更適合正式和商務場合。而女性在現代社會最初要與男性平起平坐,除了硬朗的西裝外套,在底下仍要加上一件散發嚴謹之美的府綢恤衫。

談到恤衫,本地恤衫品牌PYE掌舵人Dee Poon(潘楚穎)認為,「我喜歡basics,我相信basics是時裝衣櫥的基礎。白襯衫地位有如牛仔褲、芭蕾平底鞋或T恤,你我都不能沒有這些要素。」這位恤衫專家說明了恤衫是永不過時的。

時裝世界的創意大師數十年來不斷為女性設計出或耀眼、或低調、或性感的恤衫。1970年代是嫵媚女裝恤衫(blouse)的天下,但踏入女權冒升的1980年代,Giorgio Armani給女生送上白恤衫首個高潮,然後是川久保玲和山本耀司將之拆解化作無性別。1989年美國《VOGUE》百周年紀念,封面上十大超模將白恤衫下襬打結露腰,則誘惑無比。

PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 2: A model walks the runway during the Celine designed by Phoebe Philo show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on October 2, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: A model walks the runway during the Valentino Womenswear Spring/Summer 2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation for fashion house Jil Sander during the Men and Women's Spring/Summer 2018 fashion shows in Milan, on September 23, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / Andreas SOLARO (Photo credit should read ANDREAS SOLARO/AFP via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 5: A model walks the runway during the Celine designed by Phoebe Philo show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017/2018 on March 5, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation during the Jil Sander Women's Spring/Summer 2019 fashion show in Milan, on September 19, 2018. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP) (Photo credit should read MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 2: A model walks the runway during the Celine designed by Phoebe Philo show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on October 2, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: A model walks the runway during the Valentino Womenswear Spring/Summer 2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation for fashion house Jil Sander during the Men and Women's Spring/Summer 2018 fashion shows in Milan, on September 23, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / Andreas SOLARO (Photo credit should read ANDREAS SOLARO/AFP via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 5: A model walks the runway during the Celine designed by Phoebe Philo show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017/2018 on March 5, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation during the Jil Sander Women's Spring/Summer 2019 fashion show in Milan, on September 19, 2018. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP) (Photo credit should read MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty Images)
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2000至2010年代的簡約主義由Raf Simons的Jil Sander與Celine的Phoebe Philo推至新高峰。前者將德意志的Bauhaus美學進行到底,廣告中有如性冷感的恤衫造型影響無數文青;後者給大都會事業女性最大力的支持,也為藝廊女主人準備了最得體的恤衫制服。來到2020年,Pierpaolo Piccioli在Valentino春夏系列上用府綢恤衫作了廿個不慍不火的新演繹,浪漫醉人都不足以形容,把恤衫再次以女性化姿態呈現,同時不致失去恤衫本質上的瀟灑流麗。