1960’s Twiggy

有人說如果沒有Twiggy‭ (‬本名Lesley Hornby‭)‬的話,就沒有完整的1960年代的時尚。這話從何說起?是Twiggy的一頭中性爽朗短髮,動搖了從1920年代流行的鮑伯髮型堅固地位,這多得當時66歲的髮型師Leonard Lewis‭ ‬大膽為Twiggy塑造中性風格,加上炯炯有神的雙眸上排列着根根分明的濃密睫毛,劃時代的小精靈妝容一夜之間成為時裝史上最為標誌性的時尚繆思女神。

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Givenchy Mister Brow Groom. Pat McGrath Labs Perma Precision Liquid EyeLiner. NARS Climax Mascara. La Mer The Lip Balm. Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturiser Oil Free. Dress, Louis Vuitton.

傳奇性的Twiggy娃娃妝以超長而濃密的眼睫毛着稱,同時充分強調纖長的下眼睫毛設計讓雙眸更具張力有神,不乏甜美浪漫的效果。今季1969年代閃耀的時刻再次回歸,甚至啟發了Dior創作總監‭ ‬Peter Philips‭ ‬以眼線筆畫上假眼睫毛,讓妝容更為復古、更為浪漫;而Prada則以黑色睫毛膏繪製成如蜘蛛狀的睫毛,詮釋另類的可愛風格。Bea Sweet為今期的妝容取其睫毛設計的精髓,重點集中在下眼角的假睫毛妝容,而眼線位置恰巧放在雙眼皮折子中央,同樣做到加深眼睛輪廓的效果。

LOS ANGELES - 1967: English supermodel Twiggy poses for a portrait during the filming of 'Twiggy in Hollywood' directed by Bert Stern part of a three episode documentary series that aired in the spring of 1967 on ABC-TV, in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)
Model Twiggy wears a wool chenile Pattie Tuttman for Silverworm jumpsuit and holds a Louis Vuitton roll bag made of Vuitton canvas; Oster for Paraphernalia chain bracelet and a Vacheron Constantin watch. (Photo by Bert Stern/Condé Nast via Getty Images)
LOS ANGELES - 1967: English supermodel Twiggy poses for a portrait during the filming of 'Twiggy in Hollywood' directed by Bert Stern part of a three episode documentary series that aired in the spring of 1967 on ABC-TV, in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)
Model Twiggy wears a wool chenile Pattie Tuttman for Silverworm jumpsuit and holds a Louis Vuitton roll bag made of Vuitton canvas; Oster for Paraphernalia chain bracelet and a Vacheron Constantin watch. (Photo by Bert Stern/Condé Nast via Getty Images)
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1970’s Vivienne Westwood

作為龐克‭(‬Punk‭)‬時代的標誌,英國時裝設計師Vivienne Westwood首當其衝,她的設計遊走於挑釁與尊重傳統之間,開創屬於她的叛逆「新浪漫主義」美學;除了那些顛覆傳統的設計迅速成為主流外,還有她漂白的龐克短髮、標誌式的彩色眼線紋身及冷色系的唇色,鮮明大膽的個人形象更是深入民心。

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Tom Ford Fiber Brow Gel - Espresso. Victoria Beckham Satin Kajal Liner -Black. Givenchy Volume Disturbia Mascara No1 Black Disturbia. YSL Eye Gloss Smudger. Pat McGrath Permagel Ultra Lip Pendi - Deep Void & Matte Lipstick - Deep Void. Giorgio Armani Crema Nuda. Top, skirt, bra top and belt, all Versace.

Vivienne Westwood‭ ‬無論個人還是自己所設計的天橋妝容,都喜歡以繪畫形式設計臉部妝容,如線條、色塊、畫筆筆觸等。多年來Vivienne的妝容變化在於眼簾上的不規則「眼線」,隨性地圍繞眼部一周。‭ ‬Bea Sweet‭ ‬同樣選用了黑色線條,描繪出模特兒眼部形狀,簡潔有力;而唇部也選用了代表着叛逆的暗黑浪漫風格,‭ ‬深紫色的艷麗顏色,沒有喧賓奪主,反而營造出俊酷而嫵媚的氣息。

Vivienne Westwood pictured in London. Her boyfriend, Malcolm McLaren, manager of the Sex Pistols, was to appear at Bow Street Magistrates Court. London, 30th August 1977. (Photo by Charlie Ley/Mirrorpix/Getty Images)
Punk rock group "Sex Pistols" manager Malcolm McLaren and friend designer Viviane Westwood seen here outside Bow Street Magistrate Court, after being remanded on bail for fighting. (Photo by Daily Mirror / Bill Kennedy/Mirrorpix/Mirrorpix via Getty Images)
Vivienne Westwood pictured in London. Her boyfriend, Malcolm McLaren, manager of the Sex Pistols, was to appear at Bow Street Magistrates Court. London, 30th August 1977. (Photo by Charlie Ley/Mirrorpix/Getty Images)
Punk rock group "Sex Pistols" manager Malcolm McLaren and friend designer Viviane Westwood seen here outside Bow Street Magistrate Court, after being remanded on bail for fighting. (Photo by Daily Mirror / Bill Kennedy/Mirrorpix/Mirrorpix via Getty Images)
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1980’s Annie Lennox

炫目的橙色skinhead與黑色上下眼線的妝容,加上中性西裝及手杖,剛強造型顯然易見,而一雙尖銳的柳葉眉及紅唇的設計又瞬間灌注女性氣質,完全奠定了1980年代Annie Lennox雌雄同體的時尚標誌。最為特別是顴骨的濃艷腮紅,更象徵着當時Annie Lennox渴望前衛外觀的諷刺意味,為時尚開啟了剛柔並濟的時尚風格。

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Fenty Beauty Brow MVP Ultra Fine Brow Pencil & Styler - True Red. Pat McGrath Labs PermaGel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil - Blitz Brown & Lebs PermaGel Ultra Lip Pencil - Major Red. Marc Jacobs Beauty Eye - Conic Multi - Finish Eyeshadow Palette - Fantascene 790 & Beauty Re(Marc)able Full Coverage Foundation Concentrate - Ivory Light 10. Tom Ford Fabulous Lip Colour - Fucking Fabulous. NARS Blush Torrid & Soft Velvet Loose Powder - Snow. Shirt, blazar and tie, all Gucci.

通常紅色眼影與胭脂的組合對於亞洲人來說,是偏向於日本原宿風格。但Bea Sweet筆下的Annie Lennox妝容,則是強悍而時尚的酒紅色煙燻妝。不僅僅覆蓋整個眼簾部分,更向眼角方向延伸,打造出立體的眼眸輪廓。最後當然少不了經典的紅唇作為點睛一筆。

Annie Lennox (Eurythmics) on 01.04.1983 in München, Munich. (Photo by Fryderyk Gabowicz/picture alliance via Getty Images)
Annie Lennox Of The Eurythmics - 1980S, Annie Lennox Of The Eurythmics - 1980S (Photo by Brian Rasic/Getty Images)
Annie Lennox (Eurythmics) on 01.04.1983 in München, Munich. (Photo by Fryderyk Gabowicz/picture alliance via Getty Images)
Annie Lennox Of The Eurythmics - 1980S, Annie Lennox Of The Eurythmics - 1980S (Photo by Brian Rasic/Getty Images)
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1990’s Geri Halliwell

1990年代的倫敦時期,應該不會有人不認識Spice Girls,她們不僅是最受歡迎的流行音樂女子組合,更是當時最呼風喚雨的潮流引領者,從厚底鞋到開衩長裙、運動裝束還是吊帶背心等,‭ ‬說到影響着1990年代時尚趨勢的最標誌性造型,莫過於‭ ‬Geri Halliwell‭ ‬紅髮搭配英國國旗‭ ‬Union Jack的連身裙形象,讓人難以忘懷。

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Geri Halliwell當年形象如同一頭鮮紅色頭髮般火辣,成為所有倫敦女性為之渴望的理想形象。上世紀1990年代,完美無瑕的皮膚是當時潮流的重點,因此Bea也同樣採用了今季秋冬所流行的啞緻底妝,讓隨後的彩妝看起來更為型格。另外,低調的下眼線代替了往日‭ ‬Geri Halliwell的眼角暈染,變得更為乾淨利落,搭配完美唇形的硃砂色,在懷舊風格上增添幾分現代感。

Geri Halliwell (aka Ginger Spice) of English pop group the Spice Girls in concert, circa 1998. (Photo by Dave Hogan/Getty Images)
Geri Halliwell of British all-girl singing group the Spice Girls at the Brit Awards, 24th February 1997. (Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images)
Geri Halliwell (aka Ginger Spice) of English pop group the Spice Girls in concert, circa 1998. (Photo by Dave Hogan/Getty Images)
Geri Halliwell of British all-girl singing group the Spice Girls at the Brit Awards, 24th February 1997. (Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images)
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2000’s Amy Winehouse

Amy Winehouse 的蜂巢髮型和銳利的貓眼妝容,她的離世在七年後的今日仍然能激發出不少靈感創作:Karl Lagerfeld 以1960年代的歌手風格啟發2008年早秋系列的設計靈感,顯然是對 Amy 致敬;而 Jean Paul Gaultier 的2012春夏高級訂製便是獻給剛去世的她。可見 Amy Winehouse 的復古精神融入搖滾樂中,展現出當代文化融合的變化。

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這對具有戲劇性的貓眼彷彿成為Amy Winehouse的代名詞,但她的唇部妝容卻會隨心所欲地轉換,從性感的深紅色到低調奢華的粉嫩嘴唇,此外便沒有太大的變化。而意外的是,Bea Sweet選擇了近乎裸色的唇膏為模特兒打造出豐盈效果的唇妝,為了襯托出懷舊上揚的誇張黑眼線,帥氣又不失華麗的風格。

MUNICH, GERMANY - NOVEMBER 01: Singer Amy Winehouse performs at the 2007 MTV Europe Awards at Olympiahalle on November 1, 2007 in Munich. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/WireImage)
LONDON - FEBRUARY 14: (EMBARGOED FOR PUBLICATION IN UK TABLOID NEWSPAPERS UNTIL 48 HOURS AFTER CREATE DATE AND TIME) Singer Amy Winehouse perfoms on stage during the rehearsals at the Brit Awards 2007, at Earls Court 1 on February 14, 2007 in London, England. (Photo by Dave M. Benett/Getty Images)
MUNICH, GERMANY - NOVEMBER 01: Singer Amy Winehouse performs at the 2007 MTV Europe Awards at Olympiahalle on November 1, 2007 in Munich. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/WireImage)
LONDON - FEBRUARY 14: (EMBARGOED FOR PUBLICATION IN UK TABLOID NEWSPAPERS UNTIL 48 HOURS AFTER CREATE DATE AND TIME) Singer Amy Winehouse perfoms on stage during the rehearsals at the Brit Awards 2007, at Earls Court 1 on February 14, 2007 in London, England. (Photo by Dave M. Benett/Getty Images)
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Hair Stylist: Ali Pirzadeh @ CLM Hair using apwigs
Manicurist: Ami Streets using Nails INC
Models: Twiggy – Aasmae Lotta @ The Hive
Vivienne Westwood – Isabela C. @ IMG
Annie Lennox- Finn Buchanan @ The Squad
Geri Halliwell – Tabby @ IMG
Amy Winehouse – Leyla Greiss @ IMG
Production: Fernanda Dugdale
Styling Assistant: Sarah Reed
Makeup Assistants: Gareth Harris & Natasha Sultana
Hair Assistant: Linus Johansson
Casting Director: Lyly Bui