在 Yves Saint Laurent 掌舵同名品牌的四十年間,他從各種藝術形式中汲取靈感:繪畫、舞蹈、詩歌,無一不包。但身為知名收藏家、亦是 Andy Warhol 與 Bernard Buffet 等藝術家好友的 Saint Laurent,對視覺媒介尤其鍾情,從 1960 年代到 2002 年最後一場高訂時裝展,藝術靈感貫穿始終。

Saint Laurent 在自己的作品中曾借鑑了眾多藝術流派。最著名的當數他以 Piet Mondrian 為靈感的連身裙系列,於 1965 年秋季時裝展亮相。1988 年,他向 Georges Braque、Vincent van Gogh 等一系列藝術家致敬,將他們最具辨識度的圖案揮灑於模特兒身上。這位設計師從不迴避任何流派:1990 年春季高訂系列中,他採用了 Buffet 嚴厲的黑色幾何線條;1999 年則擁抱了 Pierre Bonnard 色彩繽紛的後印象派風格。在另一個例子中,他將藝術與舞蹈結合,以 Pablo Picasso 為 Sergei Diaghilev 的俄羅斯芭蕾舞團《Parade》設計的服裝為靈感,創作出丑角風格的裙子。

Saint Laurent 的繼任者們同樣熱愛藝術。1999 年,Alber Elbaz 執掌時期,Mario Sorrenti 拍攝了一組受名畫啟發的廣告:Noot Seear 演繹了蒙娜麗莎的微笑,Kate Moss 則重新詮釋了《草地上的午餐 The Picnic》。

今年大都會藝術博物館服裝學院的展覽「Costume Art」以及同年的 Met Gala 服裝主題「Fashion is Art 時尚即藝術」,正是聚焦於藝術與時尚的交匯。Saint Laurent 現任創意總監 Anthony Vaccarello 將擔任委員會聯合主席,或許他亦會藉此機會,為品牌豐富的藝術史再添新章。

以下,一起回顧曾啟發 Yves Saint Laurent 的那些藝術家。

Piet Mondrian

Composition with red, yellow, and blue, 1921, by Piet Mondrian DE AGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/Getty Images

Composition with red, yellow, and blue, 1921, by Piet Mondrian DE AGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/Getty Images

Fall 1965. Photo: Bettmann
Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Getty Images
Fall 1965. Photo: Bettmann
Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Getty Images
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Georges Braque

Les Oiseaux, 1952-1953, by Georges Braque Photo: Getty Images

Les Oiseaux, 1952-1953, by Georges Braque Photo: Getty Images

Spring 1988 Photo: Getty Images
Spring 2002 couture Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com
Spring 1988 Photo: Getty Images
Spring 2002 couture Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com
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Vincent van Gogh

Irises, 1889, by Vincent van Gogh Photo: Getty Images

Irises, 1889, by Vincent van Gogh Photo: Getty Images

Vase with Fifteen Sunflowers, 1888, by Vincent Van Gogh Photo: Getty Images

Vase with Fifteen Sunflowers, 1888, by Vincent Van Gogh Photo: Getty Images

Spring 1988. Photo: Getty Images

Spring 1988. Photo: Getty Images

Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com
Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com
Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com
Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com
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Pierre Bonnard

Door Open onto the Garden, 1924, by Pierre Bonnard Photo: Getty Images

Door Open onto the Garden, 1924, by Pierre Bonnard Photo: Getty Images

Spring 2001 couture. Photo: Getty Images

Spring 2001 couture. Photo: Getty Images

Tom Wesselmann

Mouth #2, 1966, by Tom Wesselmann Photo: Getty Images

Mouth #2, 1966, by Tom Wesselmann Photo: Getty Images

Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com

Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com

Henri Matisse

The Rumanian Blouse, c. 1940, by Henri Mattisse Photo: Getty Images

The Rumanian Blouse, c. 1940, by Henri Mattisse Photo: Getty Images

Fernand Léger

The Disc, 1918, by Fernand Léger Photo: Getty Images

The Disc, 1918, by Fernand Léger Photo: Getty Images

Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com

Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com

Pablo Picasso and Sergei Diaghilev

Seated Harlequin, 1923, by Pablo Picasso Photo: Getty Images

Seated Harlequin, 1923, by Pablo Picasso Photo: Getty Images

Fall 1979 couture. Photo: Getty Images
Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com
Fall 1979 couture. Photo: Getty Images
Spring 2002 couture. Photo: Antoine de Parseval/Shoot Digital for Style.com
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Bernard Buffet

Bernard Buffet at an opening in 1966. Photo: Getty Images

Bernard Buffet at an opening in 1966. Photo: Getty Images

Spring 1990 couture. Photo: Getty Images

Spring 1990 couture. Photo: Getty Images