What makes a dish taste like wintertime? This festive season, chefs all across the city are diving into the depths of their spice cabinets in search of flavours that can bring warmth to the coldest of nights.
Belon
“To be honest, there was a lot of nervousness and fear at the beginning. Stepping in as Head Chef of a restaurant shaped by such a respected Chef Matthew Kirkley was quite nerve-racking and stressful,” says Chef Mina Güçlüer. “I’m still stressed, of course, but a lot less scared.”
The young Turkish-German chef took the reins of Belon back in April this year, gently turning a new page for the Michelin-starred restaurant through cuisine that feels “lighter and more feminine”. “Because of my Mediterranean background, I tend to use olive oil more than butter, keeping the flavours refreshing and balanced. My biggest inspirations come from the foods and flavours I grew up with and often miss. Being far from home, I get homesick for certain tastes and aromas, so I try to bring some of those memories into our dishes.”
For her first Christmas as Belon’s Head Chef, Güçlüer draws inspiration from her favourite Turkish dessert, kabak tatlısı, to craft a completely new savoury dish of Spiny Lobster with Hokkaido Squash and Tahini. Here, the squash is the undisputed star of the show, cooked down in a flavourful juice of squash trimmings, cinnamon, cloves, black peppercorn and thyme. “I love using spices, whether it’s summer or winter. In this dish, the spices are not only tasted but also smelled as soon as the plate hits the table.”
1/F, 1-5 Elgin St, Central; belonsoho.com
Heimat
“German Christmases are warm, cosy, comfortable and exciting! The festivities begin with the smell of the beautifully decorated real Christmas trees, then the smell of freshly baked weihnachtsplätzchen wafting through the home starting a few days beforehand, followed by the smell of the roast goose in preparation for the Christmas meal on the 25th,” says chef Peter Find, reminiscing on the holiday atmosphere back home.
At his restaurant Heimat—which is German for homeland—he channels this familiar festive spirit through dishes he enjoyed throughout his childhood. The standout is a traditional German-style roast goose known as martinsgans in German—and Heimat is the only restaurant in town that makes it. Stuffed with apple, oranges, onions, and an earthy, herbaceous mugwort blend that helps cut through the richness of the meat and aids in digestion, the goose takes a full day to prepare and roast before it is ready to be served. Chef Peter pairs the goose with a traditional German side dish of red cabbage that has been braised in a medley of green apple, cinnamon, red wine, bay leaf and red currant jam over two days, and some German potato dumplings that are simple yet comforting.
“This dish is all about balancing the rich meat and gravy of the roast goose, with the fruitiness and sourness from the stuffing and red cabbage. True to my restaurant’s philosophy, my inspiration stems from my mother’s recipe, but I have refined and simplified it for Heimat.”
8/F, 33 Wyndham Street, Central; @heimathk
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
At L’Atelier De Joël Robuchon, the warmth and generous spirit of the holidays are expressed through the sophisticated culinary codes that have long defined the establishment. Flavours are rich and wholesome, yet presented with delicacy and balance. This year, the restaurant’s festive centrepiece is a reinvention of the classic Beef Wellington that uses turkey for a lighter feel.
“We begin with a supreme of French turkey breast that is carefully trimmed and seasoned only with fleur de sel and a touch of Espelette pepper,” explains the Robuchon kitchen team. “It is then layered with a thin sheet of pan seared foie gras and a duxelles of wild mushrooms cooked slowly in butter until almost confit. then everything is wrapped in a feather-light puff pastry made with French butter. It is served with an intense, glossy turkey jus reduction enriched with black truffle. On the side, we serve roasted chestnuts that have been gently braised with smoked bacon, celery, fennel, a touch of cardamom for warmth, and finished with a dash of VSOP Cognac.” Every bite echoes the festive spirit.
Shops 403-410, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central; robuchon.hk
Photography: Samantha Sin
Styling: Ella Wong
Editor
Alyanna Raissa J. Payos
