At the Musei Capitolini in Rome, regarded as the first museum in the world dating back to 1471, Alessandro Michele presented a sartorial ode to antiquity for his Gucci Resort 2020 show. The collection was premised with a quotation by historian Paul Veyne that appeared on the show invitations and on a white bedsheet that hung at the entryway of the museum: “Only pagan antiquity awakened my desire, because it was the world of before, because it was an abolished world.”

Inside the museum was a majestic space lined with ancient artefacts and an A-list celebrity front row including everyone from Harry Styles to K-pop group EXO’s Kai — but also present was a sense of gravity in reaction to “recent news” of restrictive abortion bans in America. Michele’s responses were in plain sight: the ‘70s feminist slogan “My body, my choice” was emblazoned on the back of a purple jacket; a mini capelet top was embellished with the date 22.05.1978, the day the Italian statute for women’s abortions rights was established; and a powder pink gown appeared with an embroidery of the female uterus at the midsection. Michele has always been outright about Gucci’s longstanding commitment to women’s rights and freedom of individual choice, but for a cruise collection that typically leans towards commercial sensibilities, the activism was as resonant as ever.

Yet, all the same, there was no compromise in Michele’s designs. Models walked down in scores of glittering ensembles, outfits that mixed rococo prints with Mickey Mouse graphics, louche suits worn with extravagant headwear, and every stretch of maximalism and kitsch. There were numerous nods to Rome, as seen in the dramatic red capes, draped togas, and gladiator-inspired tunic dresses. “It was important to organise this show in Rome,” Michele said, “to pay tribute, to glorify this place of freedom.”